Coffee, the Pleasure That Risks Becoming Bitter

Mariagrazia Lupo Albore, DG of Unimpresa, talks about rising prices and social risks for a truly Italian ritual

Coffee as a Social Ritual

Coffee has never been just a simple drink. It is a moment of social bonding, a small daily luxury, a ritual that marks the rhythm of Italians’ days. From breakfast at the bar to a work break, all the way to meeting friends, the cup of coffee is a symbol that unites regions and generations.

Rising Prices: A Heavier Pleasure

Over the last five years, the average price of coffee at the bar has risen from under €1 to over €1.30, with even higher peaks in large northern cities. Projections are clear: by the end of 2025, we could reach €2 per cup. While the overall impact on household budgets is small, this increase risks making the daily ritual less accessible.

The Causes of the Increases

According to Mariagrazia Lupo Albore, these price rises are not random:

  • Climate change compromising crops in Brazil and Vietnam.
  • Rising energy and logistics costs.
  • Widespread inflation affecting the entire agri-food chain.
  • Environmental regulations introducing new production burdens.

These are structural factors that inevitably end up being reflected in the final price.

The Social Risk of a Broken Ritual

The issue is not only economic. If coffee becomes a luxury, a habit with enormous social and cultural value is weakened. The coffee break at the bar is a moment of connection, a democratic gesture that brings together everyone, regardless of income or social class.

A Challenge for the Entire Supply Chain

Nino Manfredi’s famous line is still relevant: “Coffee is a pleasure, if it’s not good, what pleasure is it?”. Today we might add: coffee is a pleasure, but only if it remains accessible to everyone. The entire coffee supply chain – from agricultural production to distribution, down to baristas – must find a sustainable balance.